Preston Mountaineering Club

affiliated to the BMC

Dovestones Meet – 15th October 2006

by Ian Bradley

Jeremy and I arrived at 9:25 at the car park by the Dovestones Reservoir to find no other PMC members present. Whilst walking to pay for the car park, Gordon turned up. Fortunately, the car park ticket machine was broken – a good start to the day! But just the three of us.

Never mind, Jeremy and I had decided that north facing Dovestones and a strong easterly wind was not a good idea, so nearby west facing Robinson’s Rocks (AKA Rob’s Rocks) was a better bet. Especially given the recent damp spell – green seemed the colour of the day.

Gordon joined us on the walk up to the crag just below the Chew valley reservoir. Gordon parted company from us at the crag and he continued up to the reservoir. The crag was a generally friendly but short gritstone outcrop, some bits sheltered from the worst of the wind. The rock itself was incredibly coarse and remarkably clean.

Right, Jeremy, where is the guide… oh dear, I don’t seem to have it. Did you pick it up from the car window ledge when we left as Gordon arrived… No, did you? Oh well, exploration was going to be the game for the day.

A relative local (but from Yorkshire) happened to also be there having, it turned out, bivied under a nearby rock. He had the ancient Chew Valley guide – with its half-dozen or so routes… whilst the shiny modern (Rockfax) guide took a holiday in the sun on the front seat of the car! A quick read and memory test was required as the local was leaving soon to cycle back to Yorkshire…

We had great fun – we started on possibly the windiest route on the edge. Niche Wall (VD) was fine until I pulled out of the (surprise, surprise) niche onto its right arête. Then the wind hit and nearly blew me away! Fortunately, a combination of good technique, good gear, bravery and stupidity in equal measures, got me to the top, where I sheltered behind a block to bring up Jeremy.

Another excellent slabby VD route was Cripple’s Wall – really pleasant balancy [and still a bit windy] climbing. The best of the lot was undoubtedly Cascade (HS, 4a). Gear was marginal, the crux (a rounded mantelshelf!) right at the top, but then this is real gritstone.

Midway through the day, Gordon reappeared. So we stopped climbing, sheltered from the wind and had a pleasant natter over lunch. He’d circumnavigated the Chew reservoir, investigated several paths which deteriorated into bogs, and learnt to walk on water having decided walking on the lake was dryer than the surrounding land!

Gordon disappeared back down the hill after lunch whilst Jeremy and I completed a few more routes before finally the cold wind got the better of us and we followed Gordon home.

Would I go again? Without a doubt, but next time I’d make sure I had a guide! Besides, there is a rather inviting VS crack calling to me…

Attendees: Ian Bradley, Gordon Semple and Jeremy Whitehead.